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For this child, I have prayed. (Samuel 1:27)

Beadboard Wallpaper Project, Part 1

I had a few people ask me how to do this super-easy, one day beadboard project. Here is my wall before:

I LOVE the look of beadboard, however, I’m pretty sure that if I tried to use a table saw that I would walk away with a few less appendages. I mean, I can’t even use a hedger without cutting the cord every single time. Plus, beadboard wall paper is WAY less expensive than the real deal. It is around $16 for 54 sq feet roll.  It is very easy to install as well.  Here is how I did mine:

I bought a roll of Simple Style paintable (beadboard) wallcovering from Lowes. They have several kinds of this available on the market. However, if you have kids or plan on putting this up in high-traffic areas, then I recommend getting the thinnest one you can find.  This wallpaper has a foam backing which gives it the look of beadboard- and also can dent. The Simple Style one does not have the thick foam on the back so there is nothing to dent. Whichever thickness you choose, make sure it is pre-pasted.

There are two parts to this project: hanging the wallpaper, and putting up a chair rail. I found a super-easy (and CUTE) way to do the chair rail so that you only have to make simple straight cuts instead of the angled cuts (called meitered edging).

Wipe down the area to be wallpapered and measure how high you want it to be.  Remove any electrical cover plates.

I chose to do just under 31″ from the bottom of the wall on top of the baseboard to the top of the wall paper.  Pick a place to hang your first section. You don’t want to start in the corner. I chose to start right beside an outlet because it made it easier to cut a hole for the outlet. Use a leveler to mark a line that is perfectly straight up and down. You’ll use this line to line up your section so that the rest of the sections are perfectly straight. My wallpaper required that I soak it underwater in the bathtub for 10 seconds to activate the paste/glue. (Be sure to get pre-pasted wallpaper- it makes it a breeze to install). Then I used my reference line I drew to line up the paper.

I placed it onto the wall with the edges slightly over the baseboard, then used a cutter with a trimming guide to trim off the excess paper. Don’t worry about making it perfectly even at the top. The chair rail will cover it anyways.  I then used this same trimming guide to squeegie the excess paste out from behind the paper. I had plenty of paper towels on hand to wipe away the extra goo.

Next, you simply repeat this step with new sections until you are done.  *Tips: make sure that your next section lines up with properly spaced beadboard. I recommend only cutting one section at a time so that you can keep track of the correct spacing. Once it is all hung, then you can caulk the seams to hide the seams.  I just used my finger to rub the caulking into the seams, then wiped the excess off with a damp rag.You can also caulk along the bottom just above the baseboard to hide the edges of the wallpaper.

Above is just showing a reminder to make sure you don’t hang the next panel upside down, making the lines look off. Once the caulk dries, paint over the beadboard wallpaper your chose color. I like the gloss paint for trim and beadboard.

Inside/outside corners: There are lots of neat little extra moulding pieces available to solve some of the tricky moulding spots. The wall I chose to do opens up to a doorway that lacks moulding.  So I couldn’t just chop off the chair rail and leave the end exposed. The solution? This little guy:

It is cut so that it fits over the corner and all I have to do is cut a length of chair railing for between the transition pieces. This one is for ‘outside corners.’ They make them for inside corners as well, and in using them you will not have to worry about making any fancy cuts of chair railing in the corners. If you are putting up a chair rail to a door frame that already has moulding/trim on it, then you can just put your chair rail right up to it. If you have an exposed corner/wall section, then you can get a length of V-shaped moulding called a corner guard. You just glue it with liquid nails vertically from the top of the basebaord to the bottom of the transition piece. (I’ll post pictures of this in part II).

(I am holding up the back view so that you can see the shape of it).  For these little guys, you can find them in the moulding section at lowes or home depot for about $1 each.  They are raw pine, so you’ll want to prime and then paint it before putting it on the wall.  I used a spray primer and with this kind you can immediately paint it.  I did one coat of primer, two coats of paint (with drying time in between coats), then I *sprayed it with a protective gloss coat.*  I did this because it will help protect it from scratches that are bound to occur.  I only did this for the transition pieces.

To place these pieces on the wall, I simply used liquid nails for panel and foam. Use your leveler to mark where each one should go.  The last step is to measure your chair rail between each transition chop it off where needed. I just squeezed some onto the back and held it firmly in place for about a minute. Easy peasy!

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